NIJA BOXERS and TELDE DALMATIANS & BOXERS

Boxer Breed Information

  

 

The Boxer Breed Standard information below is taken from the ANKC - Australian National Kennel Club website 2011

The Breed Standard below is the blueprint that all ethical Registered Boxer breeders when breeding a litter have this information in mind and set their goals to achieve and breed to the best Boxers they possibly can

 

 

 

   
   
General Appearance:

 

 

The Boxer is a medium sized, sturdy, smooth-haired dog of short square figure and strong limb. The musculation is clean and powerfully developed and should stand out plastically from under the skin. As a service and guard dog he must combine a considerable degree of elegance with the substance and power essential to his duties; those of an enduring escort dog whether with horse, bicycle or carriage and as a splendid jumper. Only a body whose individual limbs are built to withstand the most strenuous "mechanical" effort and assembled as a complete and harmonious whole, can respond to such demands. Therefore to be at its highest efficiency, the Boxer must never be plump or heavy. Whilst equipped for great speed, it must not be racy. When judging the Boxer the first thing to be considered is general appearance, the relation of substance to elegance and the desired relationship of the individual parts of the body to each other. Consideration, too, must be given to colour. After these, the individual parts should be examined for their correct construction and their functions. Special attention should be devoted to the head.

Characteristics: The character of the Boxer is of the greatest importance and demands the most careful attention. He is renowned from olden times for his great love and faithfulness to his master and household, his alertness, and fearless courage as a defender and protector. The Boxer is docile but distrustful of strangers. He is bright and friendly in play but brave and determined when roused. His intelligence and willing tractability, his modesty, and cleanliness make him a highly desirable family dog and cheerful companion. He is the soul of honesty and loyalty. He is never false or treacherous even in his old age.
Temperament: (See under Characteristics)
Head And Skull: The head imparts to the Boxer a unique individual stamp peculiar to the breed. It must be in perfect proportion to his body; above all it must never be too light. The muzzle is the most distinctive feature. The greatest value is to be placed on its being of correct form and in absolute proportion to the skull. The beauty of the head depends upon the harmonious proportion between the muzzle and the skull. From whatever direction the head is viewed, whether from the front, from the top or from the side, the muzzle should always appear in correct relationship to the skull. That means that the head should never appear too small or too large. The length of the muzzle to the whole of the head should be as 1 is to 3. The head should not show deep wrinkles. Normally wrinkles will spring up on the top of the skull when the dog is alert. Folds are always indicated from the root of the nose running downwards on both sides of the muzzle. The dark mask is confined to the muzzle. It must be in distinct relief to the colour of the head so that the face will not have a "sombre" expression. The muzzle must be powerfully developed in length, in breadth and in height. It must not be pointed or narrow, short or shallow. Its shape is influenced through the formation of both jaw-bones, the placement of teeth in the jaw-bones, and through the quality of the lips. The top of the skull should be slightly arched. It should not be so short that it is rotund, too flat, or too broad. The occiput should not be too pronounced. The forehead should form a distinct stop with the top line of the muzzle, which should not be forced back into the forehead like that of a Bulldog. Neither should it slope away (downfaced). The tip of the nose should lie somewhat higher than the root of the muzzle. The forehead should show a suggestion of furrow which, however, should never be too deep, especially between the eyes. Corresponding with the powerful set of teeth, the cheeks accordingly should be well developed without protruding from the head with "too bulgy" an appearance. For preference they should taper into the muzzle in a slight, graceful curve. The nose should be broad and black, very slightly turned up. The nostrils should be broad with a naso-labial line between them. The two jaw-bones should not terminate in a normal perpendicular level in the front but the lower jaw should protrude beyond the upper jaw and bend slightly upwards. The Boxer is normally undershot. The upper jaw should be broad where attached to the skull, and maintain this breadth except for a very slight tapering to the front.
Eyes: The eyes should be dark brown; not too small or protruding; not deep set. They should disclose an expression of energy and intelligence, but should never appear gloomy, threatening or piercing. The eyes must have a dark rim.
Ears: Some American and Continental Boxers are cropped and are ineligible for competition under Kennel Club Regulations. The Boxer's natural ears are defined as: moderate in size (small rather than large), thin to the touch, set on wide apart at the highest points of the sides of the skull and lying flat and close to the cheek when in repose. When the dog is alert the ears should fall forward with a definite crease.
Mouth: The canine teeth should be as widely separated as possible. The incisors (6) should all be in one row, with no projection of the middle teeth. In the upper jaw they should be slightly concave. In the lower they should be in a straight line. Both jaws should be very wide in front; bite powerful and sound, the teeth set in the most normal possible arrangement. The lips complete the formation of the muzzle. The upper lip should be thick and padded and fill out the hollow space in front formed by the projection of the lower jaw and be supported by the fangs of the jaw. These fangs must stand as far apart as possible and be of good length so that the front surface of the muzzle becomes broad and almost square; to form an obtuse (rounded) angle with the top line of the muzzle. The lower edge of the upper lip should rest on he edge of the lower lip. The repandous (bent upward) part of the under-jaw with the lower lip (sometimes called the chin) must not rise above the front of the upper lip. On the other hand, it should not disappear under it. It must, however, be plainly perceptible when viewed from the front as well as the side, without protruding and bending upward as in the English Bulldog. The teeth of the under-jaw should not be seen when the mouth is closed, neither should the tongue show when the mouth is closed.
Neck: The neck should be not too thick and short but of ample length, yet strong, round, muscular and clean-cut throughout. There should be a distinctly marked nape and an elegant arch down to the back.
Forequarters: The chest should be deep and reach down to the elbows. The depth of the chest should be half the height of the dog at the withers. The ribs should be well arched but not barrel-shaped. They should extend far to the rear. The loins should be short, close and taut and slightly tucked up. The lower stomach line should blend into an elegant curve to the rear. The shoulders should be long and sloping, close lying but not excessively covered with muscle. The upper arm should be long and form a right-angle to the shoulder-blade. The forelegs when seen from the front should be straight, parallel to each other and have strong, firmly articulated (joined) bones. The elbows should not press too closely to the chest-wall nor stand off too far from it. The underarm (forearm) should be perpendicular, long and firmly muscled. The pastern joint of the foreleg should be clearly defined, but not distended. The pastern should be short, slightly slanting and almost perpendicular to the ground.
Body: The body viewed in profile should be of square appearance. The length of the body from the front of the chest to the rear of the body should equal the height from ground to the top of the shoulder, giving the Boxer a short-coupled, square profile. The torso rests on trunk-like legs with strong bones. The withers should be clearly defined. The whole back should be short, straight, broad and very muscular.
Hindquarters: The hindquarters should be strongly muscled. The musculation should be hard and stand out plastically through the skin. The thighs should not be narrow and flat but broad and curved. The breech musculation should also be strongly developed. The croup should be slightly sloped, flat arched and broad. The pelvis should be long and, in females especially, broad. The upper and lower thighs should be long. The hip and knee (stifle) joints should have as much angle as possible. In a standing position the knee (stifle) should reach so far forward that it would meet a vertical line drawn from the hip protuberance to the floor. The hock angle should be about 140 degrees; the lower part of the foot at a slight slope of about 95 to 100 degrees from the hock joint to the floor; that is, not completely vertical. Seen from behind the hindlegs should be straight. The hocks should be clean and not distended, supported by powerful rear pads.
Feet: The feet should be small with tightly-arched toes (cat-feet) and hard soles. The rear toes should be just a little longer than the front toes, but similar in all other respects.
Tail: Interim Description
Docked: Set on high and carried upward.
Undocked: Set on high and carried gaily, of moderate thickness. In overall balance with the rest of the dog.
 
Gait/Movement: Movement of the Boxer should be alive with energy. His gait, although firm, is elastic. The stride free and roomy; carriage proud and noble.
Coat: The coat should be short and shiny, lying smooth and tight to the body.
Colour: The permissible colours are fawn, brindle and fawn in various shades from light yellow to dark deer red. The brindle variety should have black stripes on a golden-yellow or red-brown background. The stripes should be clearly defined and above all should not be grey or dirty. Stripes that do not cover the whole top of the body are not desirable. White markings are not undesirable, in fact, they are often very attractive in appearance. The black mask is essential but when white stretches over the muzzle, naturally that portion of the black mask disappears. It is not possible to get black toe-nails with white feet. It is desirable, however, to have an even distribution of head markings.
Sizes: Dogs: 56-61 cms (22-24 ins) at the withers.
Bitches: 53-58.5 cms (21-23 ins) at the withers.
Heights above or below these figures not to be encouraged.

Dogs around 58.5 cm (23 ins) should weigh about 30 kgs (66 lbs) and
Bitches of about 56 cm (22 ins) should weigh about 28 kgs (62 lbs).
Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Viciousness; treachery; unreliability; lack of temperament; cowardice.
Head: A head that is not typical. A plump, bulldoggy appearance.
Pinscher or Bulldog head. Light bone. Lack of proportion. Bad physical condition.
Lack of nobility and expression. "Sombre" face.
Unserviceable bite whether due to disease or to faulty tooth placement. Showing the teeth or the tongue.
A sloping top-line of the muzzle.
Too pointed or too light a bite (snipy).
Eyes: Visible conjunctiva (haw). Light eyes.
Ears: Flying ears; rose ears; semi-erect or erect ears.
Neck: Dewlap.
Front: Too broad and low in front; loose shoulders; chest hanging between the shoulders; hare feet; turned legs and toes.
Body: Carp (roach) back; sway back; thin, lean back; long, narrow, sharp-sunken in loins.
Weak union with the croup, hollow flanks; hanging stomach.
Hindquarters: A falling off or too arched or narrow croup.
A low-set tail; higher in back than in front; steep, stiff or too little angulation of the hindquarters; light thighs; cow-hocks; bow-legs; hind dew-claws; soft hocks, narrow heel, tottering, waddling gait; hare's feet; hindquarters too far under or too far behind.
Colour: Boxers with white or black ground colour, or entirely white or black or any other colour than fawn or brindle.
(White markings are allowed but must not exceed one third (1/3) of the ground colour.)
Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Last Updated: 22 Jun 2010

 

                                                   

 

 

 

 

                       

 

 

 

 

Information in Brief re Natural Short Tail / Bobtail Boxers

 

The information we have provided below is fact not fiction, and is available on many reputable Boxer Websites, we have provided some links below

  

Dr. Bruce Cattanach is uniquely qualified to carry out this experiment. He has been a noted breeder/exhibitor of boxers in England since 1949 under the Steynmere prefix, and is a geneticist by profession, with a specialty in the cause and analysis of genetic defects. Until his recent "semi-retirement," Dr. Cattanach was Director of the Medical Research Council Mammalian Genetics Unit in the UK.. Dr. Cattanach was instrumental in eradicating the crippling, hereditary, neurological disease, Progressive Axonopathy, from the British boxer in the 1980s, and is currently working to lessen the very widespread incidence of hereditary Heart problems in British Boxers. Before embarking on the bob-tail experiment, Dr. Cattanach informed the (British) Kennel Club of his plans well in advance, kept detailed records, and backed up his research with DNA analysis of all the participants. Since the U.K. Kennel Club, like the Australian National Kennel Club, is a very conservative organization, it was doubtless Dr. Cattanachs pre-planning, scientific methods, and detailed records that led to their acceptance of the fourth generation of his bob-tails for registration as purebred boxers.  

 

The Bobtail / Natural Short Tail Boxers are now over 21 generations away from the very first outcross. The haplotype (DNA sequence) of the Corgi has been diluted so much that, rather than having 50% Corgi, bobtail Boxers have at most 0.02% Corgi in the 12th generation, and that will continue to decrease by half with each successive generation. The dog has at least 19,907 genes -- which means 12th generation bobtails have, at most, 4 genes from the original Corgi parent. The Bobtail Boxer has not incurred any extra health issues that the Corgi carries even if the Corgi used in the cross was ‘at risk’,  we are now so many generations away from the original outcross that there have been no discernible effect in the incidence of extra health issues in the breed as a result of this one outcross.

 

So in brief your new puppy will carry at most a 0.01% of the Corgi gene; he/she will not have any other or extra health issues and your Boxer puppy will have the beauty, confirmation, personality / temperament and health that you know and love that is found in all Boxers. Registered breeders (Sydney, and some interstate) of the Bobtail / Natural Short Tails are / have participated in a health testing scheme in conjunction with Dr Robert Zammit of Vineyard Vet Clinic. As yet they have not found any extra health issues in Boxers that may be associated with the Bobtail / Natural Short Tail gene. Most ethical Natural Short Tail / Bobtail Boxer Breeders are still vigilant in their breeding’s are not breeding Natural Short Tail Boxers to meet the public demands, but in the hopes of breeding a Boxer that is as close as possible to the Aust. Standard

 

Today in Australia and World Wide you will find Natural Short Tailed / Bobtail Boxers in most Confirmation and Obedience Rings and the Winners Circle; in most Exhibition Classes you will find Natural Short Tailed Boxers being exhibited.

  

If you would like to learn more about Bobtails and have access to a computer printout the information so you can read it in your time to understand how it occurs and why. Below is a list of web sites that have the best information available.

 

http://steynmere.co.uk/

www.americanboxerclub.org

 

 

Owning, breeding, exhibiting etc. a Natural Short Tail / Bobtail Boxer is a choice and while the ANKC - Australian National Kennel Council recognises / Registers them; as our choice we will continue to breed and exhibit our Boxers.

 

 

Some have views on the Natural Bobtail / Natural Short Tailed Boxers that are not based on fact but are solely based on fiction; before you judge and /or share your views or opinions make sure you have all the facts and know that what you are sharing with others is correct. We do not hold any negativity towards any owner, breeder, exhibitor etc. that chooses a Boxer with a Natural Length Tail.

 

This is their choice and we respect them for this.

 

We don't force our opinions on you, please don't try to force your opinions, ideas, choices on us and new puppy owners.

 

 

 Don't label all Natural Short Tail / Bobtail Breeders as ruining our / your chosen breed for all eternity, and also for owning, breeding, exhibiting Xbred Boxers; we all live in a democratic country that we all love.... Australia

 

 We all have a choice to own, breed, exhibit, and most of all love our chosen breed the Boxer, and when our laws changed it was our choice

to have a Boxer with a Natural Short Tail.

 What we would like is others to show us the same respect we show you when you choose your choices of tail length

 

 

 Information in Brief re White Boxers

 

From time to time we recieve an enquiry asking us "do you have any white / albino Boxer puppies?", "Where do I buy one?", "Are they rare or Albino's"?. This is such an emotional subject as each breeder has their own opinions, as well as their own reasons for placing a white puppy. We have experienced or heard of the pain and suffering of white Boxers as it endures treatments for extensive cancers, not to mention the cost/s that can occur on a family both as their loving pet is ill as well as the Vet costs incurred. Below are just our views on this and we do not force our opinions on others, and we would like others not to force their views on to us.

 

As ethical registered breeders with ANKC & DogsNSW we are bound by rules and regulations (ANKC Regulation 6.2.4 - The registration of white Boxers is NOT permitted on any register), as well as the breed standard (see above under faults - colour). The more and more prevelant advertising of white puppies on online sites is becoming more common and these advertisements usually state that the white puppies are rare, albino's, or in some instances are health tested. It has become more common for ethical registered breeders to be asked do they have any white Boxers available.

 

With numerous studies carried out here and internationally it has found that white Boxers, may and can (high probability) develop cancerous growths at a young age, and are born either partially or entirely deaf as well blind or have eye defeacts or they will develop blindness or eye defects later in life. The Boxer as a breed in general has a well established reputation for the incidence of growths in older animals, these being either cancerous or fatty growths. As well as a high possibility of a shorter life span.

 

The white Boxer is in fact not a rarity nor is it an albino as some would like you to believe but the Boxer of today developed from the original breeding of a Brabanter and a Bulldog. The Boxers of today have inherited these genes and also of carring the white gene. As long as they are bred indiscriminately there will always be white puppies available by people who do not truly have the Boxers best interests in mind. The increase of white Boxers being advertised for sale or in rescue centres is a concern to us, as it shows that a high percentage of people do not fully understand the consequences of breeding or the care involved / implications in owning a white Boxer.

 

It is common knowledge and well documented worldwide that fair skin people have a lack of melanin and that they have the inability to deal with the affects of ultra violet rays from the sun resulting in sunburn, thus in turn resulting in skin cancers developing in white Boxers. The results of this are known by many experienced breeders who have had dealings with white Boxers over many years - that these dogs suffer from an abnormally high incedence of malignant growths, deafness, eye problems and a shorter life span. The climate that we love as Australians is not very kind to us as well as our white Boxers, so before you purchase a white Boxer from any breeder ask yourself can I provide the care and time to provide a white puppy / adult a full and healthy life.

 

It all comes down to genetics, and the truly ethical breeder will always have at the fore front of their mind when planning a breeding on what coat colouring each breeding will produce

i.e. flashy to plain/solid = no whites, flashy to flashy = whites, mismarks and excess white markings, and it is these breeders that will adjust their breedings to minimise these occurences.

 

Responsible, ethical breeders are concerned with what lays ahead for our wonderful breed due to the increase of white Boxers being bred and offered for sale. The future of the breed is affected by those that are ignorant or ignoring the impact on both the puppies and families.

So it brings us to our future planned breeding's at Nija & Telde we will always have the best interests of all our puppies & adults that are bred here. Our aim is to minimise the occurance of white Boxer puppies and where ever possible our breeding's will always be flashy to plain/solid and or plain/solid.

 

Before purchasing a white puppy ask yourself these 2 questions

 

A) The climate that we love as Australians is not very kind to us as well as our white Boxers, can I provide the care and time to provide a white

puppy/adult with a full and a healthy life

B) If my puppy/adult develops health problems can I afford the Vet costs that will or may occur

 

And most importantly ask the breeder the following and if they have not and can not simply don't purchase their puppy

 

A) Is my puppy BEAR hearing tested, if not why? - and do not purchase any puppy/adult that is not BEAR tested

B) Will the breeder of my puppy take him/her back once they develop health problems or help with the Vet costs incurred

 

 

  




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Penrith, NSW, Australia
Email : [email protected]

 

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